Doll Photography (2): Intro to Lenses ~ with Subs!

Hello everybody, this is Musume. This is the second video on my “Doll Photography”
series. As announced, we will be discussing lenses and explaining how they are defined, their types, parts, and what they are used for. As before, Cookie, my Withdoll Donny, will
be explaining us everything. Let’s understand the numbers that define a lens. Lenses are always defined with some numbers, ranges and letters, which may be difficult to understand. Let’s break them down. Regarding numbers, you may find three different
compositions, as Cookie is showing: The first number or range is the focal length: how narrow or wide is the angle of view of the lens. The lower the number, the wider the angle. A lens can have a single number for focal
length, like an 85mm lenses; in this case, it always has the same angle and if you need to focus, you need to move yourself closer to your target. If the focal lens is a range, like in the
classic 18-55mm, that means that the lens has a ring on its body that you can use for
zooming, while staying on the same location. The second group of number is always preceeded by a letter “f”. These are the f-numbers or “speed”: this is
how much light the lens lets through, as well as it indicates its depth of field (this means how blurry the background gets) So, the smaller the number the blurrier the
background and more light gets in. If your lens has a fixed focal length, it will have a single number for the f-number, like in this example. If your lens is a zooming lens, with a range
of focal length, the normal thing is to have an f-number for the widest range and the other one for the narrower range. However, zooming lenses that have a single f-number mean they can keep the same speed in the whole range. This is harder to achieve, therefore, these
lenses are heavier and more expensive. There may be letters on the name as well,
and they vary from brand and type of camera. They usually indicate the mount type, if they have stabilization, the version, and even the filter diameter. Now let’s see what parts a lens has. The top part is the one with the glass. The edges usually have a screw-like texture, and this is because you can add filters to it. Think of them as “prescriptions” for your
lens, and each of them has a different use. We won’t be addressing that here. You can also put a “hood”, which is this thing
in which my dragons are dwelling. Besides reducing the impact on a dreadful
fall, hoods also prevent dust from getting inside, and limit the “flare” that you get
when you shoot outside. The “body” of the lens usually has two “rings”, that are movable parts that go from one side to the other. If you have a zooming lens, one of the rings
will control the zoom. Otherwise, you often have aperture (the f-number) control, and focus ring. Finally, on the bottom part we have the lens’s side of the famous mount: this is what connects it to the camera. You will see that some lenses have this series of golden squares on the edges: this are electronic contacts that allow you camera body to control the lens zoom, focus and aperture, and also to read the values and show them on the screen. Yes, there are lenses that are fully manual. Putting the lens on the camera is quite easy. The body should have a small button that releases the lock. Press it, and align the marks on the lens
with the one in the body (in Nikon and Sony, this “mark” is a tiny white dot). Then get the lens in, twist, and lock. If you are unsure on how to do this, there
are tons of videos on YouTube for each brand explaining how to do this with slow motion. For the first times, I’ll suggest that you
do this on your bed, or in a table, to prevent any falls. But there are as many lenses as things you can shoot. Let’s discuss the available types. Zoom lenses are the most versatile, and that is because the focal-length has a range. Meaning that you can zoom-in without having to move. They can have a fixed f-number for the whole range (the most expensive ones), or a varying speed. There is a sub-type of this, which are called
kit lenses: these are usually inexpensive zooming lenses that come with you camera body, to provide an all-around lens. The problem with these, is that they
are “slow” or have a large f-number: because of this, your backgrounds will not get as
blurry as you want, and it will be hard to get bokeh. Then, you have prime lenses. Their focal lens is a single number, and their aperture is often really, really fast. Therefore, you can use them for portraits,
street and doll photography. They will yield awesome results, and you have tons of options to choose from. The more common primes are the 50mm, called nifty-fifty, 35mm, 85mm and 135mm. Another type is wide-angle lenses. The focal length usually goes from 24 to 35mm, and it can be fixed or zooming. This type will allow you to have a wider angle of view, meaning that you can capture more of the surrounding rather than a specific
subject, like in a prime lens. These are great for landscape and architecture interiors, but not that great for doll photography. There are also fisheye lenses, which are an ultra-wide type. Photos with these lenses tend to have that
rounded, aespheric look to them, that is often used for panoramics, real-state or abstract
photography. Then, you have macro lenses, with focal lengths being either fixed or zooming, but ranging roughly from 100 to 250mm. These lenses usually get expensive, and the more affordable are often fully manual: meaning that your camera body will not control the
zoom, focus or aperture, and will probably not be able to read the values to show them on your screen. These are for detailed photos of small things, like insects, flowers, water drops and so on. Of course, you could get one of these for
faceup photos, but that is up to you. Finally, we have telephoto lenses, which you won’t be using for doll photography. Their focal length often varies from 100 to
600mm, and they are really large, heavy lenses used for sports, wildlife or astronomy photos. As you have seen, many of these types have similar focal-lengths… you may be wondering “what is the difference?” There is an extra number to consider: and
that is the minimum focusing distance. Lenses are not like your eyes, that can get
a sharp focus on a subject at almost any distance. This distance means how close a lens can get
and still focus (have a clear, sharp view) of your subject. They can focus from afar, but not from closer
than that. Therefore, telephoto lenses usually have a
huge minimum focusing distance, from 1 meter or even more, while macro lenses allow you
to get closer to around 16-40cm of your target, while primes go from 30cm to 80cm, more or
less. Thus, there are some lenses that you will
probably not be able to use, because you need to “back up” a lot from your dolls to be able to focus. But besides that, lenses work different on
your camera, depending if it is full frame, or crop sensor. First of all, the focal length and the aperture (the f-number) change when you put a lens on a crop sensor camera. Basically, you need to multiply those numbers by 1.5 (or 1.6 if you are using Canon) to get the equivalent value on your crop-sensor camera. So, for example, a 50mm f1.8 lens will behave
as an 75mm f2.7. Therefore, on a crop sensor you can get a
narrower view, more focused on the subject, at the expense of depth of view -meaning that you get less blurryness backgrounds. You can use full frame lenses on crop sensor
cameras without any issue. But the problem is that full frame lenses
tend to be more expensive and heavy, because they have more glass inside them. Crop sensor lenses are cheaper and more compact. You can put them on a full-frame, and they will work… but often, you will experience “vignetting”. This is to say, that you’ll see a black edge
on your picture, and you’ll have to crop it. Some lenses are made specifically for crop
sensors, so take that in mind if you are purchasing lenses and you consider going full-frame in the future. Finally, let’s talk quickly about brands! Each brand tends to have their own lenses. But, there are other brands that offer different,
often cheaper, lenses that you can use. Examples of these are Sigma, Tamron, Samyang,
Tokina, LensBaby, Zeiss, among others. But… how you know that you can use them
on your camera? Easy! Check their mount! Many of these brands offer the same lens with
different mounts, meaning that you can get the one that works exactly for your camera. And usually, they have focal lengths or apertures that are not available in the camera brands lenses. So, we covered a lot about lenses. What should you get? When you got your camera, you’ll probably
got a cheap kit lens. So the first thing you’ll want to grab after
that, is a prime lens. Specifically, a 50mm. After that, I’d suggest selling your kit-lens,
and upgrading that one to a better zoom lens, because they are versatile and really useful. Finally, if you still want to get more glass,
I’d go for a 35mm if you have larger, 60cm or taller dolls. If you have smaller ones, an 85mm would be better, in my opinion. But which ones, especifically? It depends on your camera body brand. I have listed some options on my blog, so
check them out. But please, don’t take my word on this: do
your research, check YouTube videos and (if you can!) go to your local camera store with
your camera body, and ask them to try two or three lenses that you are undecided on. This is the best way of discerning if you
like them or not. So this is all for today! Check out my other videos about doll photography, and feel free to suggest topics for future videos on this series. And if you liked my video, please consider
donating me a KoFi. Thanks for watching, and don’t forget to check
out my blog. Bye bye~

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