HDR Lightroom CC Tutorial. Powerful and simple!

I’m gonna show you how to set up your camera
to create an awesome HDR photo in Lightroom. Hey guys I’m Criss, welcome back to Eye
Stocker, the place where you’ll find photo and video editing tutorials. Today I’m gonna show you how to set up the
auto exposure bracketing mode on your camera. This will allow you to extend the high dynamic
range and create an amazing HDR photo using Lightroom. And very quick, did you tried HDR before? If you did, how do you shoot your HDR photos? Leave a comment below and let’s get to work. First thing, make sure you are shooting in
RAW format. If you’re a Canon user like I am, you enter
the menu and you search for this setting: Exposure Compensation / AEB which stands for
Auto Exposure Bracketing. Another quick way to reach this setting is
to press on the quick menu button and you navigate to the Auto Exposure Compensation. What you want to do is to use the main dial
which is this one, of course you know it, and rotate it to the right until you start
to see these 3 lines. Just rotate the dial until the lines reach
+3 and -3 exposure values. What this means is that when you start shooting,
the camera will take 1 photo at normal exposure, another one at +3 stops of light, so very
bright and another one at -3 stops, which will result in a dark photo. This way you will have enough details in every
part of your scene when combining those 3 shots to create the HDR. And here’s the thing, you can use a tripod
when shooting that landscape, or you can shoot hand held if your lens is stabilized. Photoshop or Lightroom will take care of your
small movements during the shoot and align the photos correctly in post production. What I love to do is to enable High Speed
Continuos shooting. So I press down the shutter, the camera will
take 3 photos with 3 different exposures and then it will stop. Ok, It’s time to enter Lightroom to create
and edit the HDR image. I imported the 3 photos of the same scene
that I shot in bracketing mode. This is at normal exposure, the second one
is at -3 and the third one is at +3 stops. Let’s double click the normal exposure and
hit D to enter the develop module, I wanna show you something interesting. The sky is blown out here, let me zoom in
for a closer look. If I take the exposure slider and bring it
all the way to the left you can see that there are areas where I don’t have any information,
the clouds are blown out. I can press on J to activate the highlights
clipping and you can clearly see the blown out areas. If I analize the -3 exposure shot, I have
all these details in the clouds which is awesome! Another thing to mention is that the exposure
slider is able to go to up to +5 stops maximum and -5 stops minimum. So keep this in mind because I’m gonna show
you what’s different after I create the HDR image. Before blending these 3 images together in
HDR I wanna do just one more thing. Select the first one, go to lens correction
and check Remove Chromatic Aberration and Enable Profile Corrections. Now I’m gonna shift click all these 3 photos,
click sync and make sure I synchronize the lens corrections only. Click ok and we are good to go. So with all the photos selected, I right click,
go to Photo Merge and choose HDR. You can use the shortcut if you want, it’s
CTRL+H. I will check Auto Align and also Auto Tone. If you have moving subjects in your scene
you can use the Deghost feature at Low, Medium or High intensity. In my case I will choose None. That’s it, now click on Merge. Lightroom will finish processing the HDR in
a few seconds, but this will depend on your computer’s speed. As you can see a forth image just appeared
down here, Lightroom created a dng file and this gives you the ability to tweak the settings
of the photo like in a normal RAW photo, but this time, my exposure slider can go up to
10 stops and down to -10 stops which is incredible, I mean there’s a huge amount of pixel information
in this file right now. You remember I selected the Auto Tone before
creating the HDR and because of that, some of the sliders are already tweaked by Lightroom
for optimum settings: I’m talking about the highlights, shadows, whites and blacks. But I want to add some more contrast and add
my own look and feel to this photo so first I’m gonna lower the exposure
because for the moment I want to prioritize the sky and the clouds. Next I’m going to brighten up the rest of
the photo by applying a gradient filter and to see exactly what I’m affecting I will
bring the filter’s exposure all the way to the left at the darkest point. And I choose the brush while I’m still in
the gradient filter, make sure I have the auto-mask activated, size 20, feather 70 and
a flow of 40. So I’m gonna go and brush over these parts
and the auto-mask will help by restricting the affected areas until I reach the edge
of the mountains. After I’m finished adjusting this, I double click the exposure slider to reset it, and then raise it a bit until
I feel I have a good balance between this area and the sky. Ok, I click on the gradient filter to exit
this, now I’m back to the main settings. I will add a +10 clarity and then I’m going
to the curves section to add some contrast using an S curve. I usually add 3 points here, in the shadows,
midtones and highlights and after I’m done creating the s curve, I also like to lift
the blacks just a bit to create a faded look in the shadows. Now, for a quick shift of the colors, I go
down to the camera calibration tab, take the primary blue and bring it to the left for
a smooth orange and teal look, lower the saturation, and I will take the greens to the right side
for an awesome cinematic look. Let’s bring up the saturation for the reds
as well. I don’t wanna go too crazy with this edit,
I just want to increase the overall exposure and the photo looks just fine to me. I can check the before and after by pressing
the backslash key. I think there’s a huge difference from where
I started. And you know what, let’s add some grain
to this image, I wanna try this out. So I go to the effects and just enter my favorite
values here: 50 for the amount, 40 for the size and 40 for the roughness. This is the final image, I like it with some
grain honestly, but this is without the grain. Leave me a comment and tell me how do you
like it more.. With grain…. Or without the grain, I’m just curious,
because it all depends on your style and mood when editing. Guys if you want more videos like this one
that will help you become a better photographer and editor, just press the like on this video, subscribe
if you aren’t already and hey, don’t forget about the 3D LUT Creator contest where you
can win a PRO license of that amazing software, you’ll find the link down in the description. Also, make sure you visit my Instagram @eyestocker
and follow me if you like what I post there. I’m Criss, thanks for watching and see you

10 Replies to “HDR Lightroom CC Tutorial. Powerful and simple!”

  1. Hy man! Very useful tutorial. I finally understand how HDR works :)) Can I do something like this in Photoshop? Is the same principle?

  2. Sky does not look natural at all. Far to much altering this and that going on. +3 & -3 again to much, 2 stops either side is plenty 99% of the time, Lightroom is not the best option for HDR, have a look at Photomatix or for natural images SNS-HDR. JMO here. Russ

  3. Awesome video! The final result is a little too edited for my personal liking, but I dig that it's your style:) This video was super helpful for me. Thanks!

  4. Is there a difference between applying lens correction to the initial images or in the final hdr? I use a wide angle so distortion is quite high. However, I don’t see benefits of doing extra steps. Any thoughts? Thx

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *